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Lanvin: Men's show Autumn/Winter 2018/19 (with interview)

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Creative director: lucas ossendrijverlocation : palais de tokyocollection: the classic codes of a masculine wardrobe are reinterpreted in a sportswear version with focus on comfort and protection. the first part of the theme focusses on the re-worked suits, cut up and assembled. with very transformed english fabrics, quilted jackets and functional details. the second part makes way for foliage and floral prints, blurred, asymmetric knitwear, zipped parkas, drawstrings, protective patches. to note: the inside out duffle-coat, the bags to take on a picnic, the ultra-worked trainer, and the boiled wool stripes. interview with lucas ossendrijver:the whole idea is based on starting with almost the least liked piece at the moment, the suit, which is also the lanvin heritage. i wanted to rip the seams a bit, make it less serious, so i took the english fabrics that i mixed with sportswear pieces, with tailored pieces which are bonded. so it’s an assembly of tailoring but in a less traditional way. i thought that when we wear a suit, it’s partly camouflage, so that brought to mind seeing photos of forests, plants and foliage, natural things and i worked around that, making superpositions as well with drawings on drawings, prints on prints, to have the same effect, as with at the start, to scramble the tracks a bit. we no longer know exactly what’s underneath, but it’s almost like paintings. it’s a reversible duffle coat so one side is english fabric, prince of wales, and the other side is shearling with sections of other materials, of cotton, linen, the sleeves are quilted nylon, and we can put it on both sides. that’s really a savoir-faire, an incredible and very artisan work on these pieces. music from the show (only to be used in the context of the show, protected by the right to information)